I hadn't been to Observation Point since 2018. At the time, there was a really awesome trail that started at the canyon floor and zig-zagged up through the cliffs all the way to the top. Adventurous, scenic, passing through Echo Canyon and offering tremendous views along the way, this was one of my favorite trails of all time. Easily the best trail in the park, that's for sure. But not long after we visited, a big ol' landslide took out a good chunk of that trail, closing it for the time being. And then, about a year later, another landslide pretty much finished it off, closing it for the foreseeable future, perhaps forever. Quite the travesty indeed.
Fortunately, there exist other ways to reach Observation Point, although none of them are nearly as scenic as the old trail from the canyon floor. One way involves a really long hike from the East Rim Trailhead, the other a short seven mile roundtrip jaunt from the East Mesa Trailhead. I'd already walked a good chunk of the East Rim Trail when I checked out Cable Mountain back in late April, plus I'm super lazy and on the afternoon of May 2nd I was in an especially lazy mood so I figured, ehh, I'll take the short route. And so I stopped at a deli after work and nabbed me a sandwich and some junk chips and drove on into Zion National Park for the nth time, driving up through the tunnel, out past the east entrance, through the Ponderosa Ranch Resort and down a 4wd road towards the easy route for Observation Point.
There were hardly any vehicles in the parking lot, which was strange since it was a beautiful Saturday afternoon. I began walking on the trail, the thing nice and wide and fairly flat, numerous pines offering ample shade, the lighting delicate and soft. Not a whole lotta views. Just a nice walk through the woods.
After a while, I saw some use trails snaking off to the right, all of 'em leading to Mystery Canyon no doubt. I followed one for a bit and was gifted with a view of said canyon, the thing deep, sheer, brushy. And then I got it in my mind to check out a minor summit just off to the side, the unassuming "Blew By Peak." Barely noticeable, many people blow right on by this thing on the way to Observation Point. Not me. No sir. I was gonna see what was up there. I knew there'd probably be absolutely nothing, but you never know.
And so I left the use trail and trudged up through manzanita and cacti and a whole other assortment of lovely, prickly bushes, walking in a straightish line towards the summit. And what a summit. Golly, what a place. Wide, flat, brushy, a noticeable highpoint nowhere to be found. Yep. No surprises there. Looked exactly how I imagined. But I wandered around for a few more moments, still in search of a high point of sorts, jumpin' through manzanita, hoppin' over the occasional patch of cryptobiotic soil. Couldn't find nothing. Oh well. I ducked under a rugged pine tree and bushwhacked back to the trail.
| Observation Benchmark |
Back on the trail, I noticed a small bump just to the north of Observation Point, the unpretentious "Observation Benchmark." Despite its small stature, it was more of a "summit" than Blew By Peak, so I figured I might as well give it a looksie. I moseyed on over to the top, following a use trail most of the way, the thing a wee bit steep in spots but nothing too crazy. There were two USGS benchmarks on the summit, one marking the high point and the other situated a little ways off to the side. It was at this 2nd benchmark where the best views could be seen, mostly of the northern part of Zion Canyon.
I sat. I gazed. I absorbed the scenery. Nothin' but rugged, rugged country. That's all there is to say. Rugged, rugged country. I know I've said that a lot on this blog, but what else is there to say of Zion Canyon? Looking north, down into the thin, dark, shadowy Narrows, up into the wilderness, cliffs and canyons and sheer drop-offs and crazy bushes clingin' to the crumbly sandstone walls and inaccessible mountains and pinnacles and bumps and knobs, flat and brushy mesa tops, blocky caps, bright colors, red and white and green. How else to describe such a place?
| A view from Observation Benchmark |
And I sat there for a bit and soaked in the views, gazing out upon the West Rim, noting the peaks over there, looking down into the Narrows, wondering how many people were in there right now with their phones in their hands taking pictures of literally everything and then getting distracted and falling in the river and ruining all their electronics and just having a jolly bad time. And then I got up, brushed off my shorts, and finally made my way to the main destination of the day: Observation Point.
| The famous view from Observation Point |
Yep. Looked exactly how I remembered it in 2018. Hadn't changed a bit. It's easily one of the best views in the entire park, and unless you wanna scramble up a sketchy route to a crazy summit you really can't see a view of similar caliber. Probably the best bang for your buck if you ask me.
I sat down, drank some water, the sandwich and junk chips long since devoured on the lenghty drive to the trailhead. Only one other person was there and they soon turned back, satisfied with the million pictures they'd taken. And so I had a rare moment of solitude, enjoying Observation Point all by my lonesome, nothing but the sound of the wind meeting my ears. And then I heard panting and these two trail runners showed up and they went "wow" and I went "yep" and then I got up, took one last look at the view, and made my way back to the car.
Blew By Peak wasn't sittin' right in my mind and so I got the idea to visit it again on the way back, this time with the goal to find a high point at all costs. And so I ducked off the trail and bushwhacked about 300ft up to the summit, a much easier route than my first choice from the use trails for Mystery Canyon. And I got to the top and poked around and wouldn't you know it, I found me a booklet in a glass jar. Why such an unassuming peak such as this would have a summit register, I have no idea. I sat down, opened it up, and read what was inside.
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| Blew By Peak summit register |
| Where I found it |
Placed in 2018, the thing only had 17 entries. Mine made it 18. I closed it up, got up, took one last look, figured I'd probably never return to this place, and then made my way back to the trail. Along the way, I checked out those use trails for Mystery Canyon yet again, this time finding a spot in the shade to sit and enjoy the commanding views of the Zion Backcountry. Maybe someday I'll check out Mystery Canyon, but I certainly ain't what you'd call a "canyoneer" and I have have absolutely zero rope experience, so, we'll see...
| Mystery Canyon |
Once I'd had my fill, I got up and continued back down the trail, the afternoon growing long, the trees casting tall shadows. Because I'm an idiot, I decided to check out one more peak on the way back, the extremely inconspicuous "Peak 6645." The thing was so unnoticeable that I didn't even see it on the way out to Observation Point. Didn't even know where it was, really. Kinda had to guess. I saw a rise off through the bushes and trees and simply assumed it to be the peak, so I busted through brush over to the top, the thing wide, flat, covered in ceanothus and scrub oak and manzanita and pinyon pines. And I wandered around, trying to find a "high point," found nothing, and then made my way through the brush over to a view of sorts, the sunlight glowing off the white sandstone cliffs in the distance, the day coming to a close.
| A seldom seen view from "Peak 6760" |
It wasn't until after I got home that I realized I'd reached "Peak 6760" instead of "Peak 6645," but it doesn't really matter. I'm sure the latter doesn't look much different. I'd received my brush buffet and so I felt satisfied. Not really, but I definitely felt something, most likely the numerous scratches and cuts on my arms and legs. Ahh man. Why do I do the things I do.
Back at the trailhead, in the car, down the road, driving through the country. There was still some daylight left, so I decided to check out just one more peak for the day, the curious Separation Peak out on the East Rim. Situated between Nippletop and Crazy Quilt Mesa, this little nubbin can barely be seen from the road; it's just a small, diminutive, crumbly-lookin' knob of white sandstone. I drove back through the east entrance of the park and found a pullout along the side of the road, the peak rising in the distance, most of it shrouded in shadow. Seemed like I'd get to the top right at sunset. Perfect. It was a done deal. I got out, shut the door, hopped down into a canyon, and then began a slow ascent on slickrock and slabs towards the base of this most curious summit.
| Separation Peak |
| Lookin' back from where I came... |
I took a direct line to the summit, something I don't recommend as there was numerous brush to contend with along the way. My advice is to stick to the wash. Not only is there no brush, it's also wayyy more scenic. But I'd picked my line and I was gonna take it, and I bushwhacked straight to the base of the peak, clambering up to the summit from the northwest.
Easy going for the most part, I soon encountered some fun, downward facing class 3 slabs just beneath the summit, an unexpected yet exciting final obstacle. I scurried on up the slabs lickety-split, reaching the summit just as the sun dipped below Nippeltop to the west, casting the entire peak and the surrounding area in shadow, the evening nice and cool, dusk fast approaching.
| Class 3 just beneath the summit |
| Nippletop |
The views were pretty dang good, especially from such a little nubbin' such as this. Lookin' south revealed more of the slickrock paradise of the east rim, the "Point of Compassion" visible in the distance, Parunuweap Canyon far below, the thing inaccessible, off-limits, wild, free. Lookin' north revealed bits and bobs of the east rim, Aires Butte and South Ariel Butte visible in the distance, two huge monoliths of white sandstone. I lingered for a few minutes, enjoying the silence, my mind empty, only focused on what it was witnessing in the moment. And then I waved goodbye to the scene, scrambled off the summit, and began the short hike back to the car, this time taking the wash on the way back.
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| North |
| South |
Rising shadows, darkening skies. The toads were out. Loud things. Very loud. Them's were causing quite the racket. And I walked down the wash and there were pools in the sandstone, and every time I looked into one the frogs would shut up and scatter, dipping beneath the dark water, hiding from my inconsiderate gaze. I don't blame them. They were mating after all. Needed their privacy.
So I avoided the pools and the toads started their racket again, and the whole evening was full of their screechin' and croakin', and I butt-scooted back into the canyon and hiked up to the pullout and drove on out of the park, the sun long gone, the day finished.
It was nice to finally get back to Observation Point after all these years. It's a good spot, one I'm sure to visit again sometime in the future. It's a shame that awesome trail from the canyon floor is still closed though. That thing was the real deal.




