I barely slept. Perhaps it was my steady diet of butter toffee peanuts and Ritz Crackers that had upset my stomach. I do not know. Whatever it was, it kept me up most of the night. Tossing and turning, my stomach churning and swirling. I chugged some water, foolishly hoping that it would make things better. It did not. But I kept doing it anyway. Might as well stay hydrated in this time of gastrointestinal distress...
I'd lay curled up in a ball and then sit up and wobble around and then curl up into a ball again, all positions uncomfortable, a good night's sleep out of the question. It was around 3am when I realized that I probably had to give up the hike I had planned for the day, that I'd have to simply get up and drive on back home and pick up some Pepto Bismol while I was at it. But then 4am rolled on by and I managed to doze for a little while and when I awoke I felt marginally better so I went "ehh" and figured I might as well give the hike a try, stomach problems be damned.
The plan was to make a big ol' loop: I'd start at the Bristlecone Trailhead, leave it near the glacial moraine, ascend Doso Doyabi via its north ridge, traverse over to Wheeler Peak and then take the summit trail back to the parking lot, maybe making a slight detour over to Bald Mountain on the way down if I felt like it. According to the beta, the whole route seemed to be around nine miles with about 5,000ft of elevation gain.
So I quickly changed into my stinky clothes from yesterday and drove up the road, the morning sunlight faint and faded upon the gray rocks of the high peaks. I pulled into the parking lot, the thing completely vacant. Got out, laced up the shoes, and then began the trek to Doso Doyabi.
It was good to be back. I'd hiked this trail with Grace in August of last year so I already knew what to expect. No surprises, no jolts of excitement. Just a neat trail in a neat area with neat lighting and neat temps. Nothin' crazy. Just the way I like it.
| First look at Doso Doyabi, north ridge visible center |
And I rounded a corner and caught my first glimpse of Doso Doyabi and its north ridge, the thing lookin' for all the world like a textbook slog. A terrifically scenic slog on gorgeous rocks, but a slog nonetheless. Perhaps the slog would quell the storm in my stomach. Only one way to find out: I kept walking.
I walked for a few more minutes and then made the decision to leave the trail to start the meandering, rollicking, cross-country schlep across the exquisite glacial moraine. Sparkly rocks, variegated rocks, smooth the touch, streaked with bits of green and white and deep, silky gray. Big and small, pointy and round, I hopped from crazy rock to crazy rock, enjoying the scenery, the clinking sound the rocks made when I jumped on them, everything nice and cool, my stomach still upset for whatever reason but hey, whatchu gonna do?
And soon I had left the land of Bristlecone and had entered the land of rock and I made a bee-line to the north ridge and began the slog, little by little, one step at a time. Once I'd gained the ridge, all that was left was a straightforward—albeit steep—trudge to the summit.
| Approaching the north ridge |
| Looking down the north ridge |
It would seem that my heavy breathing and tachycardic heart rate finally provided a cure for my upset stomach, or maybe they were simply fantastic distractions. Whatever the case, I felt much better once I was sloggin' up that ridge. Aching legs and burning lungs I can handle, nausea and stomach cramps I cannot.
I took my time heading up the ridge, one simple little step at a time. The views started comin' in, beautiful, expansive, mind-bending views. I payed them no mind. Just stayed focused on the slog. No poles, no problem. I did as Kris Kringle once said and put one foot in front of the other, moving up the gorgeous, sparkly rocks, huffin' and puffin' until I reached the flat summit.
| Wheeler from Doso Doyabi |
| Northeast |
I sat down, took out the register. The last person to sign the booklet did so on May 9th of this year. Reading the entries, I realized that most people who climb this peak summit Wheeler first and then descend the north ridge, something that makes a hell of a lot more sense than what I just did. But there ain't nothin' wrong with a good ol' slog; in fact, some crazy folks actually welcome it. If you're one of those freaks, then ascending the north ridge would be right up your alley; I can say with confidence that it's nothin' but a tried and true, genuine, bona-fide, good ol', long, steep, class 2 slog. Descending it would be quite fun. But then again, ascending it cures stomach problems. Who's to say which way is better? I'll leave it at the reader's discretion...
Anywho, I left my marks in the booklet, took a look around, burped, and then carried on my merry way. I hiked to another highpoint in the distance, turned around, snapped a photo of Doso Doyabi in all its glory, and then continued on my traverse over to Wheeler, everything wide and expansive, the views stretching off into infinity.
| Doso Doyabi in all its glory |
| Traversing over to Wheeler, Baker Peak right |
And I lost some elevation on the traverse but it was alright, ok, no problem, everything was fine, just fine, no worries, not a care in the world. I was havin' a grand ol' time, my angry stomach a thing of the past, the mountain air fresh and invigorating, the traverse a simple, straightforward romp across beautiful alpine terrain. And I saw Jefferson Needle in the distance and it reminded me of Keeler Needle (the peak that's immediately south of Mt. Whitney) and it looked like a neat little detour and I was in a neat little mood so I decided to go for it. How bad could it be?
| Jefferson Needle. Looks easy, right? |
| Oh boy...the crux... |
| Just a smidge of exposure, hahaha |
Well, as it turned out, not that bad. Until the crux. The crux was a nice surprise. There I was walkin' up nice and mellow class 2 terrain, and then, all of a sudden, I come across this crux. A narrow, crumbly sidewalk that lead to some questionable class 3 with terrific exposure on both sides. I paused, said "Oh wow" and then turned on my brain, testing each rock, sticking to the east side of the sidewalk. Instead of the sheer cliff on the west side, the east side had a bit of a slope to it for a little ways until it terminated in a sheer drop-off. So I stuck to the east side, reached the class 3 section, carefully ascended that, and then walked across another narrow sidewalk to the summit. No register up there, just a big ol' cairn. I snapped a few pictures, took in the exposure, and then carefully made my way back.
| Jefferson Needle summit |
| Wheeler Peak |
| Doso Doyabi |
Now fully awake, I continued along with my traverse over to Wheeler. Some clouds started to form overhead, but they didn't look scary. Just chillin'. Not botherin' nobody, minding their own business. At least for now. There was no rain in the forecast, but that don't mean diddly squat. Always gotta use your own eyes to gauge the weather in the mountains. You'd be surprised how quickly weather can turn for the worse.
| Continuing the traverse, Wheeler Peah ahead |
| Almost there... |
And I climbed up steep and beautiful class 2 terrain to the summit of Wheeler Peak, the rocks streaked with orange lichen. I stood atop the highpoint and looked around, the views just as good as I remembered them. To the north I could see my next objective, Bald Mountain, sitting wayyy down there, quiet and serene. To the south I could see all of what I did yesterday: Baker, West Baker, Pyramid, False Pyramid. Looked nice over there. Peaceful. Calm. And all around me, in every direction, everywhere I looked, rose distant mountain ranges and flat, expansive stretches of flat desert. Wild country, silent country, scenic country, mostly undeveloped, looking for the most part exactly how it's supposed to look and how it had looked for zillions and zillions of years.
| South, Baker Peak and Co. |
| West |
| North, Bald Mtn center left |
And then I met the first person I'd seen all day, an off-duty wildland firefighter. And then came more people, more sounds, more traffic. It was time to go. I said goodbye to the summit, snapped a few photos, and then began the descent down the trail, hiking towards my next objective: Bald Mountain.
| Lingering snow |
| Bald Mtn |
I met more folks on my way down, everyone in seemingly good spirits, stoked to be experiencing the sublime essence of the high country. And Bald Mountain loomed in the distance and I left the trail at a random point and pretty much just walked in a straight line the rest of the way to the top, careful to avoid delicate alpine foliage.
Saw a couple bucks on my way up. What they were doing way up there above the timberline, I have no idea. They noticed me, they stared. I waved at them. They didn't move. They just stared. Just stared with their beady little pitch-black eyes. And then they returned to whatever it was they were doing on the mountain, walking away from me. I never saw them again.
I reached the summit, took a look around. Good views, good views all around. I ventured a little ways to the south, off the summit, sat in the sun, looked at Doso Doyabi and Wheeler and Jefferson Needle. Watched the sun, watched the shadows dance upon the rocks, watched the clouds as they grew and shrank, grew and shrank. Ate the rest of my butter toffee peanuts. Ate the rest of the Ritz Crackers. My stomach made no protest. Hell yeah. Life was good. I took the longest break of the day sittin' there in the sun on Bald Mountain, glad to be in the high country, relishing every moment. Ahh yes. This was exactly what I was lookin' for. I held onto the moment for as long as I could, time at a standstill.
| North Snake Range |
And then it got cold and I threw on a layer and the rocks, though pretty, were quite uncomfortable and soon the trance was broken and it was time to go. I am not a Bristlecone, I do not belong in the high country. Sooner or later I have to leave. That's just the way it goes.
And so I made my way off Bald Mountain, zig-zagging down an open slope back to the trail. Stopped at Stella Lake along the way; looked exactly how I remembered it from last year. And then it was back to the trail, downhill, out of the high country, back into the aspens, the greenery, the lovely subalpine scenery. And soon I heard the sounds of the cars on the road and before I knew it I was back in the parking lot and the day was complete, the trek a success.
| Stella Lake |
It was only noon. Still had several hours of daylight. So I stretched and changed into less stinky clothes and read for an hour and then drove on down the road, stopping at every scenic viewpoint along the way. Met up with that same wildland firefighter at the Mather Overlook. Seems like we both had the same idea. And then I drove on back to the Osceola Ditch Trailhead and walked on it for a little ways, turning around at Mill Creek. Not a whole lot left of that ditch. Over 100 years of wind and rain and snow have pretty much erased all evidence of it ever existing.
And then I drove on down to the Lehman Caves Visitor Center and pulled up a chair and read some more and debated staying another night. But the evening ranger program didn't seem too interesting and that proved to be the deciding factor and so I rocked a pisser and then set off on the ol' road back to Utah, the trip complete, my escape to the high country a success.
