The Long Drive
Sometimes you just gotta go somewhere. You get the itch, the calling, the desire to hop in the car and drive for several hours to a place you ain't ever been. If you've got the means, the time, the finances—what's there to stop you? Get in that hunk of junk and hit the road and glide off and away into the unknown. Go for it. See what there is to see.
It's best to plan for such an excursion. That would be the smart thing to do. But if you've been a dedicated reader of this blog, however, you will know that planning ain't really my cup of tea. I kinda just get an idea out of nowhere and play with it for a few minutes and say to myself, "Yep, that'll work" and then I put it into action and see if it actually plays out. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. But that's the beauty of it all; the thrill of experimentation. Gotta get out there and try it, live a little, you know?
I hadn't done anything interesting for a whole week. Needed to get out there. Needed to go far. I had the means, the time, the finances. I'd checked all three boxes. Oh yes. I was gonna go. Far. Hella far. Farther than I've ever gone for a lil' ol' weekend trip.
I thought about this desert range in California. The White Mountains. Really, really far away. I'd seen 'em before while drivin' up and down the 395 a long, LONG time ago. Like 2018. It's been a while. But I remembered them. They've kinda stuck around in my mind, never really going away.
Over the years I figured I'd check them out one day. Well, might as well get to it sooner than later. No more procrastination. Time to put the idea into action. So on the afternoon of July 22nd, I packed up my meager belongings and hit the road, driving out of Utah down the I-15 into Las Vegas, the temps ludicrous, never dipping below 110℉.
And I hit the 95 and coasted towards the minuscule outpost of Indian Springs. I had less than a quarter tank of gas. Probably shoulda stopped in Indian Springs. In fact, that was the plan. But then I saw the preposterous gas prices and I went "naw" and drove straight on through. Decided to gamble with my gas. I bet I could make it to Amargosa Valley. Just had another 40 minutes of driving. Not too bad, not too bad.
I put 'er in cruise control and coasted most of the way, using every last possible drop that was left in the tank. The gauge read empty but I was still going, still driving, crazy desert drivers passing me by at 80mph.
Hot in that desert. Heat waves shimmering off the horizon, the lighting harsh and uninviting. And I crested a rise and began an easy descent, Amargosa Valley in the distance. Ahh yes. I was gonna make it. And I pulled into the first gas station I saw and filled my tank to the brim and took a look around, the heat sucking the moisture from my eyes.
Small, pointy, rocky hills in the distance. Another gas station across the street. Hardly anybody out and about. Far too hot. Far too isolated. And right in front of me, a faded, green, wooden structure. "Area 51 Alien Center." And right next to it, the "Alien Cathouse."
I walked inside the center. They sold overpriced alien merchandise and alien knick-knacks and alien stickers and alien mugs and alien keychains and alien stuff, as well as typical gas station fare, none of it alien themed. How unfortunate. And in the back was an alien restaurant where they sold these alien burgers that looked like flying saucers and they put these green toothpicks in the bun that looked like eyestalks. Real creative stuff right there. And there were a bunch of European tourists in there and they were all buying cheap American beer and the guy behind the counter must've been 6'8" and he was munchin' on what I assume was an alien sandwich he got from the alien restaurant 'cause, seriously, where else would he have gotten it from, the cathouse?
Didn't linger too long in that shop. Still had a lot of ground to cover. So I hopped back in the car, AC on full blast. More road, more desert, more scraggily bushes and harsh lighting and a big ol' sand dune in the distance and even bigger mountains beyond that. Drove on through Beatty. Hooked a left on the 266. Storm clouds formed up above, dumping ephemeral rain upon the dry, desiccated land. Strange colors, stranger lighting. Purple, golden, silver. A rainbow. A double rainbow. An incline. Goin' up now. Gettin' into the high desert. No more creosote. Just miles and miles of sagebrush.
And then the road lost a bunch of elevation and I was back in the lower desert and I crossed the border into California and got my first good look at the White Mountains, the things rising up from the static horizon like massive waves in a tempestuous sea. A dark, shadowy range they were; golden clouds flanking the tippity tops of the higher peaks. I stopped the car. Got out. Took some pictures. And then it was back to the road, the windy, bumpy, scenic ol' road.
Drove up a bunch of twists and turns. Reached Gilbert Pass. Dropped down into Deep Springs Valley, Bobby Darin on full blast. Sun going down now, the lighting quite dramatic, a flavorful shift from the harsh tone it had been for most of the day.
| The White Mountains |
| Deep Springs Valley |
And then it was time to go up again. A whole lotta up. Drove the hunk of metal and rubber across cracked asphalt and squiggly wiggly twists and turns all the way to Westgard Pass. And then I hooked a right and began the long drive up White Mountain Road, the thing transitioning from blacktop to dirt, the sun below the horizon now, vomiting orange fire into the boundless sky.
| Along White Mountain Rd |
Golly gee willikers, what a sunset. Golly gee willikers, what a road. Dang man. Can't really put it into words. Just drove along, nobody else on that dirt road, the thing slightly muddy from some torrential rains that had fallen the day before. Everything smelled fresh and clean, the air saturated with an overwhelming aroma of sagebrush. And I'd stop and look off to the west, the vast, rugged line of the Sierra Nevada in sight, purple and black, the sky on fire. A deep, resonant orange-red, impossibly vibrant, the high peaks of the Sierra reaching into the fire like so many little fingers. Ain't ever seen no sunset quite like it. I enjoyed it while I could, munchin' on Pita Chips in the meantime.
And then it was over and it was plain ol' dark now and the clouds had formed into something massive overhead and it started to rain, just a tad, little drops caressing the windshield. And I drove slow and careful-like; didn't want to get no flat. No sir. Slow and steady, the rain comin' down nice and gentle, everything pitch-dark. And then I reached the end of the road and pulled off to the side and set up my sleepin' bag and hit the hay. Had a long day in the morning. I'd need my beauty sleep.
White Mountain Peak and Such
I awoke just before 6am, the sun slowly cresting the eastern horizon, a brilliant ball of fiery red, everything aglow with a ferociously subdued, crimson radiance. I sneezed, coughed, let out a burp or two. Alright. Time to get to work. I put away my sleepin' bag, got dressed, wolfed down some calories, and then stepped outside for a routine morning tinkle. Not too cold outside, which was surprising. I elected to leave my puffy down jacket in the car, only takin' my fleece and rain jacket. Whether or not that would bite me in the ass later was to be determined.
I donned the pack and then began the long hike to my chosen destination: White Mountain Peak. I got the idea that I'd most certainly have to see this thing on my visit to the White Mountains; not only is it the high point of the entire range but it's also the 3rd tallest peak in California overall. Definitely worth seein', especially since there's a nice, wide trail that takes you all the way to the summit. Gotta love that. Plus the thing is over 14,000ft high and it had been nearly 2 years since I'd last been at that altitude and I was eager to see what it was like yet again. Can't beat a good ol' high-altitude-induced migraine. Those things hit different...
| The start of the hike |
I quickly found that the trail to the summit is really just an old dirt road. I crossed a locked gate, started headin' up a gentle, mellow grade. The fiery red of the early morning began transitioning to a soft golden hue that blanketed everything in sight. Windswept, open, expansive country stretching out in all directions; not a single tree to be seen. Jackrabbits and marmots munchin' on the grass, running away at full speed whenever I got to within 15ft of them. Nobody else out and about, just me, the scene, the rabbits and the marmots and the crisp, clear morning sky.
Eventually I reached the Barcroft Research Facility. Saw a few cars there, all of them parked in a neat little row. No smoke, no sounds, no activity of any kind to be seen from within the facility. Perhaps everyone was still sleeping. Or maybe they'd all been abducted by aliens. Who's to say?
And I followed the signs and ascended the road to a saddle of sorts, a small, rusted observatory situated just off the road to my right. And I turned around and looked to the south and saw the vast expanse of the White Mountains undulating before me, the higher peaks windswept and barren, numerous groves of bristlecones and limber pines dotting the lower elevations.
| South |
It wasn't long before I finally got my first good look at White Mountain Peak. Tall, pointy, picturesque—this thing looked like the typical mountain that you imagine in your mind's eye whenever you think of the word "mountain." Rising up out of the barren alpine grasses, it dominated the horizon, still a long ways off, infinitely captivating. I snapped a couple of photos, sipped some water, and then carried on down the road, terribly excited for the mellow ascent to the top of this gentle giant.
| White Mountain Peak |
Didn't really look at the time. Just kinda walked along, counting the marmots. I stopped after 20. There were far too many, the things running around everywhere and diving into their burrows and screeching and staring at me with their beady little eyes. Save for the marmots and the jackrabbits I'd seen earlier in the morning, I didn't really see any other animal species up there, except maybe the occasional bird or two.
And the road went up and then it went down and then it really went up, switchbacking its way along the southeastern side of the peak. My pace slowed considerably, the altitude ringing in my brain. Ahh yeah. Good ol' altitude. Gotta love it.
And the wind picked up and it was nice and cold and I donned the fleece and stuck my hands in my pockets and swaggered and sauntered the rest of the way to the summit, walking through a patch of lingering snow along the way. An old research station, made up of a bunch of rocks and cement, sat lonely and cold on the summit, watching over everything with eyes that didn't exist. I sat down, sipped some more water, and took a look at the terrific views.
| Almost there... |
| The Summit |
| Bishop wayyy down there; the Sierra in the distance |
With 7,196ft of prominence, White Mountain Peak offered some pretty dang good views. Off to the west I could see the vast, rugged expanse of the Sierra Nevada, a long line of crazy peaks running from north to south, the Palisades center stage, their glaciers still clinging to existence despite years and years of extreme heat. Standing there on the summit, it was strange to think that I was higher than every single peak in that range, save for Mt. Williamson and Mt. Whitney of course. And down there, miles and miles away, was a small patch of green surrounded by a sea of tan; the town of Bishop no doubt. Looking to the northwest revealed the Glass Mountain rising out of a hazy desert, and, to the north, the rest of the White Mountains Range, Montgomery Peak and Boundary Peak visible in the distance. To the east sat an incomprehensible expanse of desert mountain ranges and valleys. Basin and range country. Wild, wild, wild. And to the south, stretching off into the hazy distance, rose more peaks of the White Mountains, Mt. Barcroft clearly visible, Sheep and Paiute Mountain like green little Hershey's Kisses.
| Northish, Montgomery and Boundary Peak wayyy out there |
| East |
| South |
| Northwest, Glass Mountain center right in the haze |
Didn't linger too long on the summit. It was mighty cold up there in the wind and I was beginning to regret the decision of leaving my puffy jacket in the car. Oh well. A little bit of walking would warm me up nice and quick. So I left my marks in one of the booklets in the gigantic summit register, the thing packed with loose bits of paper, trash, a plastic water bottle, a can of sardines, and a signed, prosthetic hand.
And then it was down, down, down, out of the wind, back on the road, back to wandering around amongst the marmots and the grass. Saw some folks who were making their way up. They were the only other people I saw on the road the whole day. Asked me what it was like on the summit. I said "windy." And they went "oh man." And that was the end of that conversation.
Walking along, one peak checked off the list, I decided to venture off the road over to this little nubbin' just to the left. "Perry Arken Top" it's called. Didn't really look like much, but you never know what can be out there. As it turns out, what's out there is a metic ton of marmot feces. Should change the name of that mound of rocks and grass to "Fort Marmot Dookie," 'cause that's exactly what it is. Not worth seeing in the slightest, but hey, sometimes that's just the way it goes. I hopped off the jumbled pile of rocks and then made my way back to the road, walking towards Mt. Barcroft in the distance.
| "Perry Arken Top" |
| Mt Barcroft in the distance |
On the road, the shrill whistles of the marmots permeating the air. Man, I'd never seen such a high concentration of the little buggers in my whole life. This place was marmot city. They were everywhere; big ones, little ones, brave ones, ones that stood on their hind legs, ones that ran at top speed and disappeared microseconds later inside their burrows, ones that sat on all fours and looked at me with curious expressions plastered on their silly little faces, groups of two, groups of four, having a picnic it seemed, living their best life, a simple life, a life of grass and sunshine and afternoon storms and winter hibernation.
I left the road yet again, cutting across the grass and the rocks and the ubiquitous marmots to the summit of Mt. Barcroft. Started ascending a slope. Looked around. Sat on down, streched my back, took a lil' breather. The weather was absolutely divine, tiny little white clouds in the sky, everything cool and bright and fresh and beautiful. I posted up shop on that slope for a good fifteen minutes, starting at White Mountain Peak. What a pretty mountain. Didn't really get to appreciate its beauty on the way up. But now, with this lighting, at this time of day, with this arrangement of cloud and sunshine and shadow, the thing looked absolutely gorgeous, one of the most beautiful sights I'd ever seen...
| Mt. Barcroft |
To be continued...




